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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Drobeček
Up a crack into the chimney between M and the tower n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Drobeček
Up the west wall, passing a bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Drobeček
From the east, up the chimney, or up the wall to the left of the chimney, between M and… Rock Climbing
6
Kazatelna
Up the left chimney to the fore rock, step over to the edge and up it past the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kazatelna
From the valley side, up the right chimney to the fore rock. Left to the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kazatelna
From the top of "Hranolek" (Little Prism), step over to the right edge and along it, n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
From the valley side, completely on the left, up the overhang into the crack and up it, n… Rock Climbing
3
Kazatelna
From the SW, up the smooth chimney, n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Baronka
In the left part of the massif, up the corner crack to its end and step over to the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Ropucha
From the fore rock on the North side, up the right edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Baronka
From the SW onto the fore rock, then to the right up the wall past a bolt, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ropucha
From the boulder on the valley side, up the wall to the right, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ropucha
From the block in the chimney, traverse left to the SW face and up it, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ropucha
By the chimney between the 3rd "Grace" route and the tower, n. v. (no view/no top). Rock Climbing
3
Patník
In the right part of the upper face, along the sloping ledge, not specified. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Patník
Straight to the bolt of the original route, not specified. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Patník
In the right part of the valley face, onto a ledge and along it to the left to a bolt. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Měsíční stěna
From NE of the gorge, up a crack, passing a bolt, not specified. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Patník
Up the left corner edge, not specified. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Měsíční stěna
From a boulder in the gorge, stemming on an edge and following it, passing 2 bolts, not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Měsíční stěna
Through the center of the north face, passing 4 bolts and then right, not specified. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Patník
From the top side, left around the corner into the valley face, and along the right edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Orion
From the valley side, through a shallow chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Měsíční stěna
Along the valley edge over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Měsíční stěna
In the valley wall, through a crack and a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Orion
Briefly through the "valley chimney", traverse left to the valley edge and along it n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Orion
In the right part of the valley wall, through a corner crack, traverse to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stěna u kruhu
Through the notch in the west wall to K, along the crack (loops) to the nest (belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stěna u kruhu
Through the south wall to the 1st K, left under the overhang to the 2nd K, and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bobřík
Through the middle of the upper (N) wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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