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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Výr
From the gully to the small balcony under the overhang, right behind the edge onto the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Výr
Downhill wall left under the groove and up into the cave. Left on the wall across K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Výr
Left from the uphill side into the hole, through it and along the right downhill edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Výr
From the block in the uphill wall. Rock Climbing
3
Výr
Left part of the uphill wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Soví hnízdo
Uphill wall to the edge of the overhang (K), right and through a recess. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Soví hnízdo
S wall onto the arched shelf, over the spike under the overhang, right to K and straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Soví hnízdo
Completely left in the uphill wall under the overhang across K, straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Březnová věž
Up the chimney through the hole onto the ledge, fall and right along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Březnová věž
From the south from behind the pine tree, up the wall (clock) to the bolt and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Dudek
Right part of the S wall towards the clocks, left and straight up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Soví hnízdo
In the right part of the uphill wall, through a recess to the balcony and the wall (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Železná věž
From the valley up the wall and the recess to the bolt, left through the crack to the… Rock Climbing
4
Železná věž
From the right upper edge, traverse to the balcony in the valley wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Železná věž
From the upper side left to the balcony and to the bolt, up over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Železná věž
Up the left part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Březnová věž
Slightly onto the ledge, fall into the middle of the wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Železná věž
Up the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Železná věž
From the upper side, right through the gully to the end and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Železný roh
Up the wide chimney from the north n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Železný roh
In the east face, using the crack of the wide chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Železný roh
In the southern face, using a crack n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Žlutá věž
Up the valley chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Žlutá věž
In the SE face, traverse right behind the edge to the balcony to the 1st bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Železný roh
In the west face, using a crack n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Železný roh
Up the SW edge n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Žlutá věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Žlutá věž
Up the chimney in the SE face to the block and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Žlutá věž
From the gully to the NW edge and over the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Skřítek
From the foot of the upper edge traverse to the right into the middle of the wall and n.… Rock Climbing

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