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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Komorná
SW wall to the balcony and through the middle of the pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Komorná
To the right of the "Normal Route" upwards, traverse into the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Komorná
Crack to the left of the NE edge to its end, traverse left beyond the edge and along the… Rock Climbing
3
Komorná
Crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Komorná
From the uphill side left to the SE edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Komorná
From the middle of the uphill wall into the cave and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Komorná
Chimney to the right of the pillar upwards, overhang and traverse right to the SE edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čarodějnice
To the right of "Normal Route" over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čarodějnice
On the right part of the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Čarodějnice
In the middle of the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čarodějnice
From the right part of the downhill wall along the ledge to the left up to another ledge,… Rock Climbing
3
Čarodějnice
Eastern edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čarodějnice
Crack in the middle of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čarodějnice
From the right part of the downhill wall along the ledge to the left up to another ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Páže
In the middle of the uphill wall to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Páže
On the right part of the uphill wall under the head and straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Páže
On the right part of the downhill wall to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Páže
Uphill wall along the crack to the left onto the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Páže
Through the middle of the downhill wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Jeroným
From the uphill side, left along the ledge, up onto the block and edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jeroným
In the middle of the wall between "Normal Route" and "North Edge" along the tree n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Thorův kyj
Upper edge to the ledge, then left along it and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Starý Fiffi
Upper wall and to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Stěna bílých skal
Through the center of the wall, past 4 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna bílých skal
Left of the route "White Fang" past 4 bolts to the crack and it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví hrad
Upper edge to the turret and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Soví hrad
Wall under the overhang and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Soví hrad
From the large terrace in the lower wall, on the right side to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Soví hrad
Southwest chimney, higher up, go left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Výr
Right part of the downhill wall to K, up to the clocks and. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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