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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Vyhlídková věž
Via the Jubilee route under the overhang, over it to the 1st Piton, right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vyhlídková věž
From the balcony in the massif by the West wall, drop into the small cave, up and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vyhlídková věž
Through the chimney between 'M' and the tower to the balcony in 'M', by standing traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vyhlídková věž
Via the crack in the valley wall to the ledge (loop), traverse left below 1st K and up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vyhlídková věž
From NW via the receding wall diagonally right under the crack, up it to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídková věž
Diagonally left onto the ledge and via the wall to K onto the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vyhlídková věž
From SE via the 'sokolík' (small chimney/crack feature), later via a crack-chimney to 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vyhlídková věž
From the boulder at the E wall step over into the crack and via features to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vyhlídková věž
Via the overhanging crack from E directly onto the platform. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídková věž
From the N fore-rock step over to the detached pillar in the E wall, over it onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Pulec
Via the western wall to K and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pulec
From NW from the boulder diagonally right onto the platform on the S edge and diagonally… Rock Climbing
6
Pulec
From the foot of the S edge directly onto the platform and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pulec
Via the eastern edge into the notch and then directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pulec
Via a crack in the SE wall to the notch, right and via another crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pulec
Via the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Herodes
Stemming to the hole, traverse right to 1st K on the edge, along it to 2nd K and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Minotaurus
3 m to the right of the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Minotaurus
Via the left plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Herodes
Via the NE wall left to 1st and 2nd K. Via the crack to 3rd K and over the steps to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Salome
From the boulder at the S edge by stemming and diagonally left upwards into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Poslední věž
From the saddle descend through the chimney and to the left into the small cave (belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Poslední věž
From the gully traverse along the ledge to the downhill edge and along it over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Poslední věž
Directly below the abseil K n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Poslední věž
Up the north wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Poslední věž
From the gully diagonally left upwards to the small tower to the 1st K. Further over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hraběnka
Left part of the upper (SE) wall to the balcony. From the right along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hraběnka
From the upper side into the SW wall, to the right upwards and through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hraběnka
From the crevice traverse left to the edge and through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hraběnka
From the boulder at the upper (SE) wall over cracks and holes to the belay station on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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