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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Quasimodo
In the right part of the S wall, via the gully to the ledge and directly to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Upír
From the NE edge, up the E wall along the ledge to K, diagonally left to the edge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Upír
From the fore-rock, step over and up the E wall to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Upír
Small crack at the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vosinec
From the chimney between "Vosicka" and the tower, traverse along the ledge to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Upíří zub
Via the left upper/plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Upíří stěna
In the right part of the wall to the right of the chimney on "Vampire's Tooth" with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Věže přátel přírody severní věž
From the massif, jump/step to the ledge on the Southeast edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via the chimney to the ledge to the bolt, then an overhanging crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the base of the tower, via the valley edge to the left, straight along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Approach via the "Valley Chimney", then right to 1st K. Further via a recess to 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Through the left part of the plateau wall of the "South Tower" over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna nepřátel
Briefly up the chimney to a bridged ledge, along it left to a balcony. From there via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Okrajová věž
Via the chimney from the NW to the jammed boulder and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Okrajová věž
From the jammed boulder up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pentagon
Via a slanting crack in the N wall below the overhang. Up a small wall over K and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pentagon
Through a gully on the SW edge into a hole (hourglass), crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Razítko
Up the wall directly below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Razítko
Along the left plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Razítko
Through the right part of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Razítko
Through the right part of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vklíněnec
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vklíněnec
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kulisa
Through the middle of the South wall of the lower tower to 1. K. Along the slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kulisa
From the NW fore-peak diagonally left into the gully and through it to the summit of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kulisa
From the South via the chimney between the upper and lower towers to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vklíněnec
Via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Kulisa
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kulisa
Along the right part of the North wall of the upper tower over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kulisa
Along the crack in the North wall of the lower tower over 2 K to the end, left to 3. K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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