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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Rotunda
Through the center of the valley wall to a ledge, traverse 2 m to the right and from the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vatikánská stěna
In the left part of the wall, a crack over 4 K and a rappelling K onwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Rotunda
In the right part of the plateau wall to a small balcony in the W edge (hours) and by… Rock Climbing
3
Rotunda
Along the balcony in the S wall behind the edge and onwards. Rock Climbing
3
Rotunda
Along the plateau edge onwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vatikánská stěna
To the left of Bukova spara, by climbing into the wall to the 1st K, then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vatikánská stěna
In the right part of the wall by a small rock projection to the 1st K, then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pevnost východní věž
Through the right part of the E face along the edge over 2 K (pitons) and further to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pevnost východní věž
In the left part of the valley wall to the 1st K (piton), then through the middle of the… Rock Climbing
1
Pevnost východní věž
By traverse from the "Main Tower" upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Pevnost hlavní a jižní věž
Through the chimney between the "East Tower" and the "Main Tower" to a ledge, right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pevnost hlavní a jižní věž
Through the left part of the N face over 5 K (pitons) upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Papež
Via the valley crack to its end (hourglass), into the cave, over K into the crack and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Papež
Via the right valley edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Papež
Via the left part of the valley wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Papež
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Papež
Up the chimney and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Papež
Through the chimney and left to the ledge. Up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Papež
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Esmeralda
From the block near the NE edge, overpass and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Esmeralda
Via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Esmeralda
Via the SE edge, occasionally right along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Quasimodo
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the saddle and via the "Normal Route" to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
3
Quasimodo
From NW from the gorge, right to the edge and along it below the head. Right over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Quasimodo
From the beech tree via the crack of the S wall to the ledge, then via the NW edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Quasimodo
From the left edge of the valley wall, diagonally right to the 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Quasimodo
From the S along the gullies upwards and left to the small balcony and to K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Upír
From the crack near the NE edge, traverse right and below the abseil K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Quasimodo
Step over from the massif and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Upír
From the right upper edge, diagonally right upwards and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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