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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Kněz
In the upper wall by the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Biskup
To the right of the "Normal Route" by the wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kněz
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Kněz
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Biskup
From the upper side, traverse and right to the W edge (via hourglasses), right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Biskup
From the right onto the balcony near the E edge, into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Biskup
Through the middle of the wall via K to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Biskup
In the middle of the plateau wall through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mořská víla
Along the right plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mořská víla
From the middle of the plateau wall left to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Frankenstein
In the very left part of the North face through the chimney to the terrace. Rock Climbing
7
Frankenstein
Up the left part of the West face via 2 Ks to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Frankenstein
Up the North face of the tower via 3 Ks to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Frankenstein
In the right part of the North face through the chimney between Frankenstein and the… Rock Climbing
7
Frankenstein
To the right of the North chimney up the wall via 2 Ks to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Frankenstein
Through the chimney to the terrace. Rock Climbing
4
Frankenstein
Along the plateau edge to the terrace. Rock Climbing
2
Bradla
Briefly upwards along the NE edge, left into the chimney and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bradla
Along the West edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bradla
Through the crack to the balcony on the SE edge and along it to the ledge to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bradla
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bradla
Directly below the rappel point, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Liščí věž
Along the NW (Northwest) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Liščí věž
Along the Sokollik (small pinnacle) near the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Bradla
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Bradla
In the upper wall up into the chimney and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Liščí věž
Through the chimney between the Massif (M) and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Liščí věž
Up the right part of the E (East) wall into the small cave (hourglass), up into the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Liščí věž
From the South from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Liščí věž
Through the chimney between the towers to the top. Rock Climbing

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