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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Zimní masiv
From the 1st K of the "Woodcutter's" route diagonally right to the 1st K upwards into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zimní masiv
Through the left part of the wall over 3 K and rappel K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Rychlovka
Through the middle of the plateau wall to a ledge and slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bouřková věž
By the wall below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Bouřková věž
Start in the middle of the East wall, diagonally right upwards to the edge and by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bouřková věž
In the valley wall by a chimney and left onto the first balcony on the valley edge, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Bouřková věž
From the gap between the tower and Rychlovka up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tyran
In the left part of M by the middle crack via 2 K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tyran
In the left part of the massif by a crack (spike) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Tyran
In the left part of the NE wall by the wall via 2 K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tyran
Through the middle of the NE wall by a crack via 3 K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tyran
To the left behind the edge in the NE wall via 3 K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tyran
Up the wall along the short arête on the S wall to K, diagonally right to the tree.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tyran
Via a diagonal shallow crack in the left third of the S part of the wall to the 1st K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tyran
Via the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Tyran
In the left part of the valley (S) wall over 2 K to the 3rd K. Then slightly left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Tyran
Right of the route “Kdy, kde, co” (When, where, what) up the wall along the edge via 4 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Tyran
Through the middle of the S wall via 2 K, then over a gentle overhang directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Tyran
Left of the route “Genocida” (Genocide) up the wall via 5 K to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tyran
Left of the route “Atentát” (Assassination) up the wall via 4 K to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tyran
On the north wall diagonally left to the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Tyran
Via the crack-chimney in the W wall over three alcoves to the terrace. Rock Climbing
6-
Tyran
Along the west edge over hourglasses and 2 K to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Baron
Through the left part of the S wall to K, upwards to the balcony and to K of the Valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Tyran
Via the valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Baron
Via the cracks of the route "Baron Prášil's Legacy" to the end, then further upwards over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Baron
Via the upper crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Baron
Via small cracks in the middle of the S wall to the end. Traverse right onto an overhung… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Baron
Through the right part of the valley (S) wall via 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Baron
From the left onto a ledge on the upper wall. About 2 m upwards over an overhang, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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