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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Baron
From the 1st K of the route “Svatba jako řemen” (Wedding Like a Belt), right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Baron
Along the right upper edge directly over (K) and (BH) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Baron
From the left onto a ledge on the upper wall. About 2 m upwards over an overhang, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baron
Up the upper wall diagonally left to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Baronesa
From the massif, descend via the crack, overcome the overhang, traverse right along the… Rock Climbing
6
Baron
Via the crack over (BH) on the E wall and right to the balcony to the ring. Right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Baron
Through the left part of the E wall to the 1st K. Right upwards to the 2nd K and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Baronesa
Through the middle of the S wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Baronesa
Up the chimney between M (massif/mountain) and the tower further up. Rock Climbing
6-
Baronesa
Start in the left part of the valley wall, then diagonally right upwards to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Baronesa
From S (South), up the wall to the left of the chimney under the overhang, then right… Rock Climbing
1
Baronesa
Jump or overhang from the massif further up. Rock Climbing
3
Markýz
Up the chimney from the valley (E) side to the end. Rock Climbing
2
Markýz
Up the chimney from the plateau side further up. Rock Climbing
1
Markýz
From the massif further up. Rock Climbing
7
Markýza
In the E wall from the left, along the crack to the pillar to K and then up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Německá věž
From the valley up the wall directly to the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Německá věž
From the gorge up the N wall to the 1st bolt. Further over the 2nd bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Německá věž
From the fallen block to the right of the crack up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Německá věž
From the fallen block left onto the edge and along it over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Německá věž
Up the wall below the abseil station over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Německá věž
From the gully below the fallen block horizontally right onto the balcony on the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Německá věž
Through the SE wall left to the hourglasses, via an overhanging small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Kardinál
Through the East wall over three bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kardinál
Through the right part of the upper wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kardinál
From the upper side left along the ledge and upwards to the 1st bolt, further left past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Německá věž
From the fallen block through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kardinál
From the 2nd bolt of the Old Route traverse right below the abseil bolt and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kardinál
Along the left upper edge to the ledge and from the left via a small crack to the cornice… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kněz
Through the corner in the left part of the valley wall onto an overgrown balcony, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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