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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Svícínek
Along the left plateau edge to the balcony and left behind the edge through the hollow n.… Rock Climbing
3
Svícínek
Ascent by the left valley chimney, later right to the 1st ring. Up the wall over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kříž
Traverse into the crack from the balcony of "Buckova cesta". Rock Climbing
3
Kříž
Right of the South edge up the small wall into the crack and up. Rock Climbing
6
Pivař
Southwest face over 2 Ks directly up. Rock Climbing
5
Pivař
Northwest face up. Rock Climbing
5
Pivař
Through the left part of the Northeast face to the balcony and up. Rock Climbing
6
Pivař
Along the ledge in the valley wall left behind the edge to K. Right to the balcony and up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pivař
Along the North edge to the hole, left to the East edge and up. Rock Climbing
7
Perníková chaloupka
Along the edge directly to the 2nd K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bílá velryba
Through the middle of the South face over 2 Ks up. Rock Climbing
6
Chobotnice
Directly over the overhang upwards to the small balcony below the rappelling K and up. Rock Climbing
5
Letní masiv
Through the crack in the left part of the wall over 2 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Letní masiv
From the right part of the South face diagonally right over 3 Ks to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křeček
Up the narrow south face along the southwest edge over 3 K (anchors/rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Prosincová
Through the center of the upper wall over the K (anchor/ring) to the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prosincová
In the upper wall, into a hole, along the wall beside the edge to the K (anchor/ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žiletka
Through the center of the valley wall into a hole on the left to the K (anchor/ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Žiletka
Along the south edge over the K (anchor/ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Žiletka
In the left part of the upper wall, through a narrow chimney to a ledge and by a squeeze … Rock Climbing
1
Žiletka
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Žiletka
In the right part of the upper wall, by stemming (opposition) between the M (massif/rock… Rock Climbing
6
Pilát
From the west crack to the K (anchor/ring), up into the chimney and through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bible
By the J wall diagonally left into the cave (hourglass). Left by small pillar onto the… Rock Climbing
4
Tři králové
By the wall below the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Tři králové
Through the right part of the valley wall over K to the shelf and right by crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové
From E by crack between the second and third tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tři králové
By the east wall of the third tower left to the S edge and along it over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tři králové
By the east facelet to the second tower. Rock Climbing
2
Tři králové
From NE by chimney between the first and second tower n. v. Rock Climbing

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