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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Baloun
Through the chimney left of "Dirty Crack" to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Baloun
Left of the SW edge, by an indistinct crack to the balcony of the original route and up… Rock Climbing
4
Baloun
Up the North face left of the "Normal Route" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Baloun
In the North face, traverse left above the overhang into the right crack and to the… Rock Climbing
1
Baloun
From the saddle between "Good and Evil" and the tower, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dobro a zlo
Through the center of the valley wall over 4 K to the 2nd K of the Valley Route and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dobro a zlo
Up the wall to the right of the valley chimney over K to the 1st K of the Valley Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dobro a zlo
To the right along the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sova
From the W through a wide chimney to the ledge and via the W crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Supík
Start in the chimney, then diagonally left upwards to the 1st K via the 2nd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Supík
Through the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lochneska
From the boulder in the gully to the right past the edge and up the wall to K, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lochneska
From K directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lochneska
From the ledge in the North wall M, traverse to the platform and right or left along the… Rock Climbing
2
Lochneska
From the massif from the east, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lochneska
Along the South crack to the balcony and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lochneska
In the middle of the South crack, left into a small crack and up to the balcony, left to… Rock Climbing
3
Lochneska
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the platform and up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Lochneska
In the right part of the North wall to the crack, up it and right to a small balcony to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Malý kyklop
Two cracks in the South part of the adjacent small tower to its summit, by jumping to the… Rock Climbing
2
Věž kmetů
From the North, traverse along a ledge in the massif (M) via hourglasses/threads into a… Rock Climbing
6
Věž kmetů
Up the chimney to a balcony near the edge to a bolt/ring, then along the edge and up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Věž kmetů
Traverse/step across from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Komtesa
Through the right West chimney to the saddle and by opposition between the massif (M) and… Rock Climbing
6-
Komtesa
Up the valley face over 3 bolts/rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Komtesa
From the massif, scramble over/across to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Komtesa
Up the left crack in the West face to the end, then by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Morana
In the right part of the massif, traverse/step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Morana
Directly up the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Morana
Up the middle of the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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