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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
9
Černá stěna
In the left part of the north face over 3 bolts, slightly to the right to the 4th bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Černá stěna
In the passage between the massifs, via the slab face to a bolt and through the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Černá stěna
Via the upper (S) face to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
9
Černá stěna
In the right part of the north face, via the face directly over 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Stromová
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Šikmá věž
From the saddle, traverse left and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Punťa
Through the center of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Punťa
In the right half of the upper wall via the crack to the balcony and higher up the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Punťa
Via the North edge to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Punťa
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Punťa
Approximately 4 m from the left upper edge, up to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Zapomenutá
From the massif, a step/jump to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Rohová stěna
Upper part of the south face via 2 pitons to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Zapomenutá
Left part of the north face to the piton, up to the fissure and left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zapomenutá
Up the crack in the north face to the 1st piton. Right to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zapomenutá
Middle of the south face via the flake to the piton, left to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zapomenutá
Along the NE edge and partly through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Zapomenutá
Up the north face along the edge via 2 pitons to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Zapomenutá
Middle of the south face via 2 pitons to the small crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Zapomenutá
Up the plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna v Loubí
In the left part of the wall over 2 K and through a crack n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna v Loubí
In the right part of the wall over the overhang into the crack, follow it to the pulpit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stěna u křižovatky
In the right part of the north face to 1st K, over the overhang into the crack, follow it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dvojitá
From NE, briefly along the rounded edge to the lower peak. Descending via the chimney and… Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá
In the left part of the S wall through an overgrown gully to the saddle and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dvojitá
Through the chimney between the towers to the ledge of the higher tower and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Soumračná věž
Through the chimney from the valley to the ledge and further n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Syrová věž
Through the chimney between the M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
Up the chimney in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
Up the plateau slab to the top. Rock Climbing

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