Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
Through the right part of the North wall over the anchor to the ledge towards the 'clocks… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šnokhouska (1. Bettlerkind)
Up the narrow V-wall over the anchor to the balcony and by the "Normal Route" to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jochanán
Along the left part of the valley wall to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dědek
From the uphill massif upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Dědek
From the South edge diagonally right along the SE wall to the ledge and upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Dubský stolník (Dauber truchsess)
Along the SW wall directly to the fixed anchors. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dědek
From the hourglasses, directly through the gully n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Merkur
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Merkur
Through the chimney between M and the tower from the east n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Merkur
Through the chimney between M and the tower from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Wodan
Through the right part of the W wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Wodan
In the left part of the southeast face, through the crack and wall to K. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Mrkvous
To the left of the abseil, by stemming between M and the tower to the end, overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Dobřeňská věž
Through the chimney to K and directly by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojhran
Through the chimney from the plateau side to the leaning block and further to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Trojhran
From the north chimney left behind the edge to the 1st K. Up along the edge over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Trojhran
From the north through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Trojhran
From the massif from the west, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojhran
From the massif (W) by descent, opposition and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Baloun
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Baloun
From the block near the SW edge, transition to the edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Baloun
Up the wall left of the South chimney directly to the bolt and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Baloun
Up the left part of the South face (right of the beech tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Baloun
Up the SW edge to the ledge and right upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Baloun
Up the East edge over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Baloun
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Baloun
From the East edge diagonally right and by crack to the 1st bolt on the pillar (rocking…
6
Baloun
Up the edge right of the "South Chimney" to the pillar to the bolt and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Baloun
Through the wide chimney between "Good and Evil" and the tower, left to the bolt of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Baloun
Left of the SW edge, by an indistinct crack to the balcony of the original route and up… Rock Climbing

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.