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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Bratranec
Via a diverging side crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Bratranec
Jump from the massif to the tower. Rock Climbing
7
Bratranec
In the right part of the valley wall, via a crack to its end, then left up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Hranol
Ascend in the middle of the valley wall directly over 2 K to the 2nd K of the original… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Hranol
Left part of the wall over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Hranol
NW edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Hranol
Left of the chimney along the valley edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Hranol
Up the valley wall along a fine crack to the 1st K. Via an overhanging flake left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Hranol
Up the wall to the left of the route "Srdcová dáma" (Queen of Hearts) over 5 K to the top… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hranol
From the 1st K of the original route directly to the 1st BH, left and over the 2nd BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Hranol
Through the middle of the north face to the 1st ring, diagonally right to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hranol
Ascend via a wide chimney and left to K, up the wall using iron holds to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hranol
Right of the route "Cyborg" along the west edge via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hranol
Through the crack in the right part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Žabák
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Žabák
Descent from M via the chimney to the balcony and traverse/jump to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hranol
In the right part of the wall, left of "Žabák" (the Frog), through the wall via 3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hranol
Right of the west crack, through the wall via 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Žabák
From NE traverse to the 2nd ring of the original route over the overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Žabák
From the left platform at the start of the "South Route" up the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Žabák
Start via the NW crack, then right to the 1st ring. Through the wall via the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žabák
Through the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Žabák
In the left part of the valley wall to the 1st ring, through the wall to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Žabák
From the saddle between M and the tower, left into the chimney, higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Žabí stěna
Via the route "Path from the Gully" to the 1st ring, traverse left to the edge and up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Žabí stěna
From SW via the crack to the 1st ring, along the rib to the 2nd ring and right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Žabí stěna
Up the west face to the crack and via it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Žabí stěna
Up the iron-rich side wall of the pillar to the 1st ring, higher via two hourglasses to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Wendyšova stěna
In the left part of the wall via 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8
Wendyšova stěna
Up the steps to the balcony, through the wall via 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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