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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Čínská zeď
Via the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Čínská zeď
To the right of the route "Crack" along the wall over 3 K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
In the left part of the north wall of the last block along the wall over K into the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čínská zeď
Entirely in the right part of the wall over K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Čínská zeď
Directly through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Rezavá stěna
Along the NW edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
Along the west wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
Through the center of the north wall of the last block over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rezavá stěna
Along the west wall of the last block over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
Directly through the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rezavá stěna
Along the overhanging wall over 2 K into the notch and right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
Through the center of the wall of the laid block over the 1st K to its top, further into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rezavá stěna
In the west wall via a corner crack to the balcony to K and left via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rezavá stěna
From the fore-rock in the north wall traverse along a ledge to the right to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
Through the left part of the north wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Rezavá stěna
Start in the chimney between the laid block and the wall, after 2 m traverse into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Rezavá stěna
Along the wall to the left of the route "Path under the Beetle" over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Rezavá stěna
Start in the right part of the wall around a large hole to the 1st K, slightly left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Rezavá stěna
Along the south wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rezavá stěna
From the block along the edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Welzenbachova věž
Start in the north face via the route "Nanga Parbat 34" to its 1st ring and slightly left…
4
Welzenbachova věž
From the left side of Massif "Rusty Wall" traverse along the bridge to the tower, drop… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Chrobák
From the NE via the chimney and Náhorní cesta (plateau path) to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Chrobák
From the plateau side, a leap/step over and up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Welzenbachova věž
Opposition (stemming) in the left part of the chimney between Massif "Rusty Wall" and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Chrobák
From the NE edge, diagonally right and up to the balcony to the ring, right onto the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Chrobák
From the north side to the fore-summit, traverse right to the NE edge and along it over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Chrobák
Through the right part of the valley wall to the 1st ring. Along the small crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Chrobák
From the ring, directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Chrobák
From the valley via the chimney, higher up via a crack to the balcony to the ring and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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