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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Sfinga
Up the wall of the massif to the right of the tower through the chimney and further.… Rock Climbing
2
Pyramida
From the north through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sfinga
Through the chimney between M and the tower directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Sfinga
Up the wall of the massif to the right of the tower via a bolt to the 'hours' feature and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pyramida
Up the wall below the abseil point directly over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pyramida
Up the north wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pyramida
Through the middle of the north wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pyramida
Up the west ridge to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pyramida
Completely in the left part of the wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pyramida
Through the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Pyramida
In the left part of the wall over 2 K to the gully, up it to the ledge and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pyramida
Up the edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pyramida
Through the middle of the valley wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pyramida
Through a wide winding crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pyramida
Through the overhanging corner to the balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Pyramida
Start in the left part of the wall through a shallow crack to 1st K, then over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pyramida
Start in the middle of the valley wall, up a sloping arched edge to 1st K on the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pyramida
From the south through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Čínská zeď
From the north through the chimney to its end, over the overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pyramida
Up the wall to the right to 1st K, then from the left to 2nd K and up the wall over 3rd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Čínská zeď
Through the overhanging corner into a widening crack and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Čínská zeď
Through a winding gully and crack to the balcony to K, then directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čínská zeď
To the right of the 'Overhanging Corner' up the wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čínská zeď
To the right of the route 'Prokládaná' (Interspersed) up the wall over 2 K into a wide… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Čínská zeď
Through a wide sloping crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Čínská zeď
Through short winding cracks to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Čínská zeď
Through the middle of the valley wall directly to 1st K and over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Čínská zeď
Through the center of the valley wall directly to the 1st K, briefly to the 2nd K and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Čínská zeď
Via the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Čínská zeď
Along the wall to the left of the route "Pantheon" over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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