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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Vosa
Through the crack in the right part of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vosa
From the boulder at the SW edge traverse right and through the middle of the south face… Rock Climbing
6
Pilíř
Through the left part of the north face over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Pilíř
Through the right part of the east face along the edge over 2 K to the ledge and over BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pilíř
Through the right part of the north face over the 1st K to the ledge, then left along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Pilíř
In the right part of the south face through the chimney between M and the tower to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pilíř
Through the right part of the west face over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Pilíř
Through the left part of the west face over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pilíř
From the south in the right part of the wall through the chimney between M and the tower… Rock Climbing
1
Pilíř
From the east via a traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Pilíř
From the massif from the south via a traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Pilíř
From the east through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Podstavec
Along the left valley edge over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Podstavec
Through the right crack in the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Podstavec
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Podstavec
Through the crack in the middle of the south face to the ledge, left into the valley face… Rock Climbing
4
Stojan
From the boulder in the plateau face step over into the middle of the face and directly… Rock Climbing
1
Podstavec
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Stojan
Up the right plateau edge via K. and two hour-glass formations further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stojan
Through the right part of the south face via 2 K. and further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stojan
Between the massif and the tower to a rock block and in the left part of the plateau face… Rock Climbing
2
Stojan
Jump from the massif further up. Rock Climbing
7
Stojan
Across the gorge to the right onto the NE ridge via K. directly further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kuňka
Through the crack in the left part of the valley face to a large ledge, then by the… Rock Climbing
2
Kuňka
Through the crack in the middle of the plateau face further up. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Archa
Up the slab in the middle of the valley face to 1st K. Directly to the bench and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Archa
In the left part of the west face via K. to a ledge, up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Archa
Through the right part of the valley face via K. to a ledge and up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Archa
Left of "Noah's path" through an indistinct corner via BH to a ledge, up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Archa
Through the notch in the right part of the face to a ledge, traverse left under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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