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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Zarostlá
Through the right part of the plateau wall to the pulpit and along the edge to the lower… Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
By the chimney around two wedged boulders n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Zarostlá
In the valley wall diagonally left to the edge and along the wall by the edge to 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zarostlá
By opposition between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zarostlá
Through the middle of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Tři králové
Through the middle of the valley wall over 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tři králové
By the crack in the corner to the balcony (loop) and further up by the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tři králové
In the right part of the central wall by crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tři králové
By the valley crack to its end, slightly left over the belly and up through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tři králové
In the left part of the central wall by chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tři králové
By a wide crack in the south wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tři králové
Through the short valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tři králové
In the left part of the north face over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Tři králové
Valley corner n. t. Rock Climbing
8
Tři králové
Up the valley face to a prominent prism over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Tři králové
Through a short wide crack in the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7
Tři králové
In the right part of the north face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tři králové
Through the middle of the north face to K and along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tři králové
Up the south face over 2 K into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Jánská věž
Through the middle of the valley face, traverse left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vosa
Traverse from left to the edge, then past the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vosa
Up the valley face over the summit head to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vosa
To the right of the "North Crack" by the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vosa
Along the NE edge to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vosa
In the upper half of the wall, traverse right and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vosa
Through the crack in the north face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vosa
Directly via the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vosa
Directly through the middle of the west face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vosa
Via the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vosa
From the NW edge 2 m left over the overhang to the balcony and up the north face. Rock Climbing

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