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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Archa
Through the notch in the right part of the face to a ledge, traverse left under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Archa
Through the notch in the right part of the west face to a ledge, right under the corner… Rock Climbing
7
Archa
Through the left part of the south face via 1st K. to a ledge, right along the face under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Obelisk
Traverse/Jump from M to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Obelisk
Through the chimney to wedged boulders, further left into the south face to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Obelisk
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Obelisk
Through the left part of the north face via 2 K. and further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Borová věž
Along the right upper edge via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Borová věž
Left of the 'Northeast Crack' up the wall via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Borová věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Borová věž
In the right part of the upper wall into a crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Borová věž
From the bolt directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Borová věž
Up the center of the North wall to a bolt, right onto a ledge, further to a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Borová věž
From the overhanging ledge in the center of the West wall upwards to a bolt, left into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Borová věž
From the bolt directly into the crack of the original route and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Borová věž
Left to a balcony at the NE edge to a bolt, traverse right under the crack and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Borová věž
Start in the left part of the upper wall, briefly up a small wall into a crack and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Borová věž
From the chimney left to the South edge and via 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Borová věž
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Borová věž
Left of the South edge up the wall via 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sfinga
Up the M wall to the left of the tower, along the edge via a bolt and further. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sfinga
Up the M wall to the left of the tower via a crack into the chimney, up it and further.… Rock Climbing
4
Sfinga
Up the M wall to the left of the tower, through the chimney, briefly into a corner crack… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
Through the chimney along the Northeast edge to a balcony, slightly right (bolt) to the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Sfinga
All the way to the left up the wall of the adjacent M along the edge via 3 bolts and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sfinga
From a block in the North wall, right into the crack, at its end right to the bolt near… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sfinga
From a block in the North wall, traverse to the edge, along it to the bolt of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sfinga
Up the South wall to the 1st bolt, from there left to the edge and to the 2nd bolt, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sfinga
Up the right part of the M wall via a bolt and further. Traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Sfinga
From the massif to the tower. Rock Climbing

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