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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Dalmatínek
In the west wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Patvaroh
Through the center of the wall over bulges to the 1st and 2nd bolt on the ledge, further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Patvaroh
Through the crack (slings) to the 3rd bolt of the route “Spring of Health from Posázaví”… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Dvojčata
Through the plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dvojčata
Via the left valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojčata
Via the right valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hadrianova tvrz
From the middle of the south face traverse right and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hadrianova tvrz
Through the middle of the south iron wall via (bolt) and 2 bolts below the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dvojčata
Via the plateau route and a traverse/jump to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hadrianova tvrz
In the left part of the south wall via a corner gash into a narrow chimney and then left… Rock Climbing
3
Dvojčata
Via the plateau crack and then the route “Double Lunge” to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Hadrianova tvrz
To the attached tower along the left edge over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Hadrianova tvrz
From the middle of the south face traverse right to the southeast edge (sling). Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hadrianova tvrz
Through the corner chimney to the top (4). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hadrianova tvrz
The route leads to the attached tower. Through the crack (slings) between the tower and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Hinzva
Through the southeast crack over slings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Hinzva
In the south wall through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Hinzva
Middle of the wall over the 1st and 2nd rings to the balcony and along the right edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
3
Hinzva
Through the northwest chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Hinzva
Through the east crack over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Hinzva
From the upper side by a high step/thrust to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7/7+
Povinný vrchol
In the left wall along the right edge over 2 rings to the Sl. ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Karkov
By crack to the flake and along the edge to the crack (loop). To the left by the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
6
Povinný vrchol
Through the middle of the wall higher up by crack n. t. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Nosorožec
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zarostlá
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Nosorožec
From the plateau side n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Nosorožec
By the valley chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá
In the left part of the valley wall to the crack, along it to 1st K, 3 m up and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zarostlá
Through the right part of the plateau wall to the pulpit and along the edge to the lower… Rock Climbing

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