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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Tovaryš
Descent from M and jump to the tower. Rock Climbing
2
Tovaryš
From "Master" jump onto the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Tovaryš
SW edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kovářská věž
Edge to K, traverse 2 m left and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Tovaryš
From the massif, jump n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Tovaryš
From the south, chimney and higher left wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kovářská věž
Along the ledge in the NE wall right behind the edge to the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kovářská věž
Upper wall to the crack, traverse right and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kovářská věž
Upper wall to the crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kovářská věž
Edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kovářská věž
Right upper edge initially by opposition and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Hodný pohodný
From the middle peak into the side wall of the tower and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kovářská věž
From the right part of the upper wall, traverse right into the NE wall and along the… Rock Climbing
6
Hodný pohodný
From the left to the shelf in the northern wall, wall to the rib and along it (sling) to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
1
Hodný pohodný
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Věž Eduarda Štorcha
Along the spur of the massif, descend and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Věž Zdeňka Buriana
From the massif, traverse and along the neck of several adjacent blocks to a small… Rock Climbing
4
Černá věž
Right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Černá věž
Below the salting directly n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Černá věž
From the massif, descend to the projection and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Černá věž
From the slab between the towers, wall to the shelf and left edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Černá věž
From the gorge between "Middle" and the tower, diagonally left to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Prostřední
Up the valley edge to the ledge to the bolt and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Prostřední
Up the north face via shelves and "hour-glasses" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4
Prostřední
Up the south edge to the balcony, higher up the face and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Černá věž
In the right part of the valley face via the left crack (loops/slings) into the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Prostřední
Directly up the overhanging edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prostřední
Up the stemming chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Prostřední
Up the deep corner in the opposite M to its end. Traverse right along the overgrown ledge… Rock Climbing
5
Prostřední
Up the middle of the SW face to the crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing

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