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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Trojnožka
Along the right valley edge of the middle tower to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Trojnožka
Directly below the rappel point to the south summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojnožka
Through the chimney between the north and middle tower to the north summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojnožka
From the uphill side by stemming to the middle towerlet. Rock Climbing
2
Trojnožka
Between the middle and south tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Trojnožka
Along the right uphill edge to the north tower. Rock Climbing
1
Jitka
From the south, jump from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jitka
From the slope along the ledge right to the edge and along it to the 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Jitka
In the left part of the SW wall, initially by stemming up the wall into a resonant pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jitka
From the chimney, initially by stemming, then along the pillar and up the wall via 3 K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Popelka
Through the middle of the valley wall along the indentation to the sub-summit plateau and… Rock Climbing
2
Popelka
From the uphill side, from the rock face on the left, to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Jitka
From the uphill side, slightly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Popelka
From the gully, traverse right to K and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Blíženci
From the massif from the East, step over to the North summit and by crossing over to the… Rock Climbing
2
Blíženci
From the massif from the East, step over to the main summit. Rock Climbing
1
Blíženci
From the massif from the North, step over to the North summit and by crossing over to the… Rock Climbing
1
Popelka
From the plateau side from the fore-rock right to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Blíženci
Via the chimney from the East between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Blíženci
Via the West edge of the North tower to K. Along the edge to the North summit and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Blíženci
Via the East edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Blíženci
Via the narrow East edge below the overhang and traverse right beneath it, by crossing… Rock Climbing
3
Blíženci
Via the chimney between the summits to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Blíženci
From K slightly left and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Blíženci
Approach via the "Valley Route", higher traverse right and via the ramp to K. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Blíženci
Via the West edge of the main tower, then by chimney to the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Blíženci
From K straight over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Koloušek
Along the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Blíženci
Via the crack in the SE face to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Koloušek
From the massif step over into the plateau face and easily to the top. Rock Climbing

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