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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Koloušek
From the massif step over into the plateau face and easily to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná díra
From the plateau side traverse right onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Větrná díra
From the SW edge traverse left, up the face to K on the NW edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Větrná díra
From the foot of the NW edge over 1st K diagonally left to 2nd K. Traverse right to 3rd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Větrná díra
Left of the SW edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Větrná díra
Up the SE face to (K), then by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Trpaslík
Through the valley's broken chimney via hourglasses directly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trpaslík
Between "Mossy Route" and "Valley Chimney" n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Trpaslík
By crack to the right of "Old Route" to the hourglasses and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trpaslík
Along the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Trpaslík
Jump from "Hlásný" into the slanted small wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Trpaslík
In the left part of the valley wall by crack and wall to 1st anchor and 2nd anchor. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trpaslík
Along the NW edge to the anchor and by crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Trpaslík
Up the center of the valley wall of the west tower over 4 anchors n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trpaslík
Via the "Saturnin" route without construction n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hlásný
From the plateau edge traverse right into the east wall and by crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Trpaslík
Via the "East Wall" route to "Hlásný" to the anchor, from a standing position drop into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Trpaslík
Through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Trpaslík
Through the left part of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hlásný
Up the center of the wall between the routes "Plateau Edge" and "Southwest Edge" directly… Rock Climbing
2
Hlásný
Traverse left to the SW edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hlásný
Traverse along the prominent ledge from the SW edge to the NW edge and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hlásný
From the gully between the tower and "Dwarf" right to the NE edge and along it over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Mistr
Between M and the tower through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hlásný
Along the plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mistr
From the right edge of "Tovaryše" (Journeyman) drop onto the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Mistr
From Tovaryše (Journeyman) drop into the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mistr
In the south wall by rib and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Tovaryš
Descent from M and jump to the tower. Rock Climbing
1
Mistr
By jumping n. v. Rock Climbing

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