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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Skřítek
Crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Skřítek
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Skřítek
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hladká stěna
Chimney between the wall and adjacent tower to 1st K. Overhang into the crack and it over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hladká stěna
Wide chimney, higher right or left chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Hladká stěna
Western chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Drsná věž
Crack in the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Drsná stěna
Chimney in the center of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Brána
Through to the valley wall. Left wall to the ledge to K and crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Brána
Through the left part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Brána
Chimney in the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Brána
Through to the valley wall. On the right along the overhanging crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brána
Completely in the left part of the upper wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Mimozemšťan
Through the north wall along the west edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Brána
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mimozemšťan
Through the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Brána
Through the gap between M and the tower to the ledge and through the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hřib
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Hřib
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Minaret
Through the crack from the downhill side over 1st K to the shelf, 2nd K, then through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Minaret
From the valley through the ravine between the tower and Vraní skála to the saddle and… Rock Climbing
6-
Čínská zeď
From the chimney, left behind the edge to the 1st bolt, then up the wall passing 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čínská zeď
Up the corner crack to the 1st bolt, then diagonally left to the 2nd and 3rd bolts, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čínská zeď
In the right part of the valley wall, up the corner n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Čínská zeď
In the left part of the valley wall, up the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Čínská zeď
To the right of Koutová up the overhanging crack onto the pillar. To the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Apollo
Up the chimney from the east between the massif and the small tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Apollo
Through the middle of the north wall under the overhang and from the left n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Apollo
Through the middle of the valley wall under the overhang. Through the hole in the tower… Rock Climbing
2
Apollo
Up the chimney from the west between the massif and the small tower n. v. Rock Climbing

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