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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Medvědice
"Old route" to the balcony and wall along the right edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Hladová věž
Right part of the upper wall by a lieback and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Medvědice
Right part of the upper wall to the balcony, right behind the edge and wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hladová věž
In the valley wall to the balcony. Significant building over K n. v. (V) 1. Clean… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Hladová věž
Left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Věž u koní
Western edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Fretka
2 m to the right of the NE edge of the foreland over ferruginous pyrite to the summit and… Rock Climbing
2
Fretka
Through the chimney in the S wall of the foreland to the summit and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Fretka
Through the chimney between the foreland and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Fretka
From the NW edge diagonally right to the balcony over K and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Obecní věž
Up the right uphill edge. Rock Climbing
7
Obecní věž
In the east face, up the crack to K, from the left slab to the holes (threads) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Březinka
Between M and the tower. Rock Climbing
3
Holubář
Along the SW edge (bolt), n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Holubář
Through a gully in the S wall to the 1st bolt, to the right and onto a ledge. To the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Holubář
In the left part of the S wall, from the left to a bolt. Dynamically upwards and straight… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Vyhlídka
On the left in the NE wall, through a chimney behind a rib, n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka
In the northern part of the massif to the right of the chimney by a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vyhlídka
In the NE wall, the left of two chimneys, n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídka
In the NE face by the right one of the two chimneys n. t. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vyhlídka
In the northern part of the massif from the right edge, by an overhang to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Vyhlídka
Start by the „Long Crack“ route for about 3 m, left into the wall (sling) and to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vyhlídka
From the 2nd bolt directly by a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vyhlídka
To the left of the „Old Route“ by a smooth wall over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vyhlídka
By a crack to the left of the "Old Route" n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vyhlídka
To the right in the NW face by a pillar and crack to the right over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vyhlídka
Between the „Vidličkou“ and „Left Edge“ routes by the wall (K) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vyhlídka
5 m to the right of the „Left Chimney“ by a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vyhlídka
To the right of the "Left Chimney" by the edge (K) n. t. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Vyhlídka
On the left corner of the large corner in the SW face by a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing

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