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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Kameník
Far left, in the descending wall, via a chimney to a large overgrown balcony, continue as… Rock Climbing
2
Kameník
On the far right on the valley side, up the chimney to the large balcony between the… Rock Climbing
5
Zkamenělý svět
To the right of the route "Seventh Seal" along the edge n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Zkamenělý svět
To the left of the route "Seventh Seal", up the wall over a shelf n. v. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
6
Mikuláš
SE edge onto the ledge, along the ledge traverse left under the roof, up the crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mikuláš
SE edge onto the ledge to the 1st ring, onto the edge, along it to the 2nd ring and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Mikuláš
Along the right valley (NW) edge over 2 rings n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mikuláš
NE edge over 2 rings n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Mikuláš
Up the plateau wall into the notch under the overhang (ring). From the left, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mikuláš
From the massif, descend via the chimney, traverse left and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kmotr
Chimney between the south massif and the tower (hourglass) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Mikuláš
Up the chimney to 2/3 of the tower's height, traverse left, jump over to the tower's… Rock Climbing
3
Kmotr
Western chimney (later double chimney) n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Kmotr
Jump over from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kmotr
Descent down the overgrown wall of the massif and jump over n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kmotr
In the right part of the valley wall, up the chimney over the hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kmotr
Eastern edge over the ring to the balcony, crossing and swinging up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čertovo břemeno
In the left part of the valley wall, by an overhanging chimney to the 1st ring, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertovo břemeno
Completely in the right part of the valley wall over 2 rings n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čertovo břemeno
From the gap under the south wall, climb through the chimney to the wedged boulder and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Čertovo břemeno
From the outcropping in the right part of the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring, left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čertovo břemeno
Up the wall to the left of the chimney, over the 3rd ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertovo břemeno
Through a crack in the valley wall to a foothold, left through holes to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čertovo břemeno
From the upper side between the massif and the tower, over the bolt and the fixed anchor,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Čertovo břemeno
In the right part of the upper wall, a lieback over the bolt to the ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Čertovo břemeno
From the massif from the west, a jump or step-over, and through the chimney, no view (or… Rock Climbing
1
Čertovo břemeno
Descent from the massif and step over n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Čajovna
In the left part of the wall, via an overhanging blunt edge, over 3 bolts, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Čajovna
In the left part of the wall, to the right of the "Turkish Whiskey" route, directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čajovna
Via the pillar between the cracks, in the middle of the wall, over 3 bolts, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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