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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Ramses
Along the western edge over 2 rings and a bolt n. v.
5
Ramses
By the recess in the N wall straight up to the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Oblázek
From the block, step to the W wall and diagonally to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Oblázek
Along the SW edge over the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ramses
Step from M to the NE edge, traverse to the right to the bolt and by the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kamínek
Along the south edge over the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Oblázek
From the shelf, along the SE edge over the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Oblázek
From the NE, by a shallow recess to a sloping shelf (also along the edge) and from it n.… Rock Climbing
4
Kamínek
Along the eastern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kamínek
Through the center of the W wall over the bolt into the groove and follow it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kamínek
Along the north edge over the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kamínek
Up the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kamínek
From the edge on the shelf, step to the right and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kamínek
By the corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Malý konšel
Up the valley-side edge to K, then up a small chimney to a notch and to K of the "Valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Malý konšel
Through the center of the North face directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Malý konšel
Along the ledge in the South face, traverse left to the valley-side edge and up it over K… Rock Climbing
3
Malý konšel
From the upper side n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Snadná
Up a crack to the top of the South fore-rocks and then up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Snadná
From the West diagonally to a balcony and up a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ptačí zoubek
From the upper side, left onto a sloping ledge in the West face and directly up the edge… Rock Climbing
3
Malinká
Between the Normal Route and the Upper Route, up a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Malinká
Right part of the slope wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malinká
Through the center of the upper wall into a gully and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Malinká
Slightly from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Malinká
Short traverse to the S face and easily n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Malinká
Up the east face, to the right and up the gully n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malinká
From the slope side, up the crack in the left part n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Čuba
Up the right slope edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Čuba
From NE to the shelf, upwards into the gully and along it n. v. Rock Climbing

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