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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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6-
Sokolí stěna
Through the center of the downhill face past 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zarostlá
Traverse from the right into the west face and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Mechová
From the SE saddle right onto the ledge, then traverse to the north edge and up it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Slon
Up the face below the abseil point, via a K (piton/bolt) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Slon
Over an overhang into the NE wall and over another overhang onto the ledge and summit. Rock Climbing
7
Slon
Up the crack in the NW face to a ledge to a K (piton/bolt). Left over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Slon
N (North) in the right part of the NE face, up the small face to the right to the S … Rock Climbing
7
Slon
Up the left part of the NW face to a ledge and right to the 1st K (piton/bolt) (also… Rock Climbing
4
Slon
In the right part of the uphill face, up the recess and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Slon
From the edge, jump to the S (South) edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Slon
Up the right downhill edge, past the clock formation and a K (piton/bolt) to a saddle and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Slon
Up the crack in the left part of the downhill face to the 1st K (piton/bolt). Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Slon
Up the downhill face to a crack and up the crack to a saddle. Rock Climbing
6
Slon
Up the right side of the trunk face via a K (piton/bolt) to the end and then via the Old… Rock Climbing
4
Slon
Left in the uphill face to a saddle and up the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kniha
From the boulder on the uphill (E) side, up the face to a ledge and from there to the… Rock Climbing
3
Kukulička
To the left of the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Složitá
Crack in the W wall to the chimney and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Složitá
From the upper side through a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Složitá
Wall to the left of the S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Děravá
Up the east wall to the ledge across the Key Overhang directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Děravá
By ledge in the E wall traverse right above the mossy balcony and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Děravá
Overhanging edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Děravá
From the downhill chimney diagonally left to the Key Overhang. By gully to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Děravá
From the sloping ledge along the rounded SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Děravá
From the SE edge traverse along the ledge to the balcony and the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Děravá
From the gully in the NE wall by double crack directly to the balcony of the original… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravá
By chimney from the gully to the balcony in the NW wall, left over the hourglasses to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Děravá
From the balcony through the center of the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vyhlídková
From the massif, jump to the balcony and the summit. Rock Climbing

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