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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Bludiště
Crack in the west part of M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Bludiště
West face of the northern part of M, over K to large hourglasses, up onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bludiště
Along the NW edge of the main M over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bludiště
South face of the northern part of M over the 1st K to the ledge and then up the sloping… Rock Climbing
7
Bludiště
In the left part of the west face of the main M, using a small overhang to the 1st K and… Rock Climbing
6
Bludiště
From the base of the rock, along the NE edge over K n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Bludiště
Left crack in the west wall n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Bludiště
Right chimney from the east n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Bludiště
Left chimney from the east n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Bludiště
Traverse in the W wall over K to the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bludiště
Up the right crack in the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Studánecká věž
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Cizinecká věž
Directly up the center of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Cizinecká věž
Directly up the right uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u vyhlídek
From the SE edge diagonally to the right to K. Straight up, or in an arc from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Gorila
From the ledge SE wall over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Gorila
From the S edge diagonally left under the rappelling K and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Gorila
From the gully in the W wall traverse along the ledge to K and up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Gorila
From the fore rock E wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Medardova kapka
Traverse from the left to the downstream edge, over it via 2 K and from the left n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zahradní kámen (Steingarten)
In the right part of the uphill wall, gap between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Havraní skála
Large small falcon in the north wall to the shelf, from the left over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Pinka
Up the center of the left west face directly to the 1st bolt, from the left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Pinka
On the far right of the west face (to the left of the route "Lavorela"), face climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
7
Pinka
Up the right edge of the west face over 1st bolt to the ledge and to the left through an…
3
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
Through the center of the south face along a small pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
Diagonally along the west edge to the small ridge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rejžáček
By chimney over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Vrátný
By jumping from the "Labyrinth" tower n. v. Also possible in the opposite direction from… Rock Climbing
4
Vrátný
By opposition chimney between the "Labyrinth" and "Gatekeeper" towers n. v. Rock Climbing

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