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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Gilotina
From the NW edge diagonally right to K, traverse left and by the edge, or straight n. v. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Gilotina
In the left part of the descending wall, above the edge to the 3rd K of the route „Soudce… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Gilotina
From the massif descend and fall to the NW edge, top. Rock Climbing
5
Gilotina
Via the north chimney between M and the tower to the ledge and via the NW edge, top. Rock Climbing
6
Gilotina
By the right descending edge over K to the ledge, traverse right and by the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Gilotina
Through the center of the descending wall over 1 and 2. K Diagonally left to 3. K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sanson
Via the northwest face to the 1st K, into the crack and through it across the 2nd K, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Sanson
In the left part of the lower wall via the crack (K), top.
5
Sanson
In the right part of the lower wall via the crack, top.
2
Kulisák
Via the north chimney, top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cestářka
Through the left part of the lower wall via a shallow crack across 2 Ks, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Cestářka
Via the SE edge across K, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Cestář
Via the crack in the lower wall to K and to the right in the recess, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Cestářka
Via the NW edge, top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Cestář
Via the crack left of the NE edge to the end, right to the edge, top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Cestář
Via the lower wall along a short crack to the 1st K, straight up the wall to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2
Cestář
From the upper side, traverse right to the SE edge, top. Rock Climbing
4
Cestář
Via the stepped edge, top. Rock Climbing
1
Cestář
Via the SW edge, top. Rock Climbing
7
Kamarádi
Through the right part of the upper wall to K and via the edge, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kamarádi
Chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kamarádi
Via the north face from the left, top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kamarádi
In the right part of the lower wall from the foreshore, via BH to K and from the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Kamarádi
Via distinct edge and wall to descend. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
3
Tulák
From the upper side to the right onto the balcony and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tulák
At the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Zub času
Uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Nestor
Wall and crack in the downhill wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Hradní věž
From the southeast from the massif descent and a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hradní věž
By the upland chimney n. v. Rock Climbing

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