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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Jeřabinka
Along the right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Lapka
Under the rappel over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lapka
At the left uphill edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lapka
Left in the SW face upwards and left over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lapka
Along the rib in the J wall to the balcony, up the uphill face to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Lapka
Right part of the uphill face over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Novoroční věž
From the massive boulder M, jump directly to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Novoroční věž
Jump from the foreland to the sloping slab to the right of the prominent crack and… Rock Climbing
7
Novoroční věž
Start briefly up a crack in the left part of the downhill (S) face, then diagonally left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Novoroční věž
In the front part (under the massive boulder M) through the chimney between M and the… Rock Climbing
6
Novoroční věž
Crack in the left part (S) of the downhill face (slings) to a bolt and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Novoroční věž
Right part of the E face over the overhang to the 1st bolt, then chimneying and over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Novoroční věž
Traverse upwards slightly to the left along the J wall to a crack at the 1st bolt. Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Novoroční věž
Slab to the right of the crack in the (S) downhill face over 2 bolts and a rappel bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Novoroční věž
In the north face, diagonally right to a ledge (slings) and over the 1st bolt diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Novoroční věž
From the South, up the left-hand chimney between M and the tower via a bolt under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Novoroční věž
From the South, up the right-hand chimney between M and the tower to the saddle and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Novoroční věž
From the South, up the middle chimney between M and the tower into the depression (sling)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Novoroční věž
Through the passage between M and the tower upwards to the traverse on the left, briefly… Rock Climbing
4
Lysohlávka
From the fore rock to the right. Rock Climbing
4
Lysohlávka
Up the downhill chimney to the fore rock and right on the "Normal Route". Rock Climbing
6
Lysohlávka
Up the left part of the downhill wall past 2 bolts and a rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lysohlávka
Left of the downhill chimney up the wall past a bolt to the top of the fore rock and the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lysohlávka
In the left part of the fore rock up the wall past a bolt to its top and the "Normal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Lysohlávka
From M from E jump across. Rock Climbing
3
Lysohlávka
From the upper side from W, stemming between M and the tower, then overhang and straight… Rock Climbing
7
Lysohlávka
Along the right downhill edge past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lysohlávka
From M from S jump across. Rock Climbing
2
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the massif from the east, through the gorge and up the crack or along it to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the prominent crack in the NW wall of the second block M to the top. Rock Climbing

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