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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Kamenická stěna
In the right part of the W wall to the 1st K. Diagonally left over the 2nd K into the…
6
Kamenická stěna
Along the edge of a separate block over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Kamenická stěna
In the left part of the right massif, to the right of the pillar, directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
7
Kamenická stěna
From the 2nd K of the "Rubáš" route diagonally right to K and slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Malý vrch
Start in the center of the north wall, through the break to the left and to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Malý vrch
From the center of the south wall slightly left (hourglass) and to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Malý vrch
In the right part of the S wall to a small platform and to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Malý vrch
Up the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Harvanova sekera
Through the crack in the right part of the S wall, higher along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Harvanova sekera
From the plateau side, step over to the edge and briefly from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4
Krásná vyhlídka
Through the "Rough Notch" and right over K into the gully. Up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krásná vyhlídka
Up the wall to the left of the "Rough Notch" route over two hourglasses and 3 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Krásná vyhlídka
From the W up the corner, higher along the crack over K to the platform and up the narrow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8
Krásná vyhlídka
Up the wall to the left of the "Rough Notch" route over an hourglass and left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Krásná vyhlídka
From the SW through the notch (loops) and then up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Krásná vyhlídka
From the S wall over 2K to the notch (3rd K) to its end, under the overhang and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Krásná vyhlídka
In the right part of the massif up the wall and along the diagonally running crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Štěpánova lopata
On the right edge of the N wall diagonally to the crumbly beak to the 1st ring, along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Ředkvička
From the upland side directly over the projection to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Štěpánova lopata
Along the horizontal ridge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4
Vychrtlý ratlík
Up the gorge between the massif and "Štěpán's Shovel" for about 8m, right to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Ležatá věž
Start on the SW edge, then right and across the ledges on the S wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4
Ležatá věž
Up the west wall over the overhang directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Overhang
5
Hlaváček
Along the left valley edge left to the spike, right over the thread-through features onto… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7
Ležatá věž
Up the center of the E wall with difficulty using the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Overhang
5
Ležatá věž
Up the south wall over the hole and slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
2
Ležatá věž
Up the center of the N small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Hlaváček
From the center of the valley wall diagonally left to the thread-through features,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Homoláč
Via the overhang into the center of the massif and to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
3
Hlaváček
Along the right valley edge to the small ledge and left to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall

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