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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Solnička
From the right upper edge traverse right onto the balcony and via the corner to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
1
Solnička
Along the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Dívčí skála
Through the middle of the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Dívčí skála
In the middle of the North wall along the ledge right onto the balcony, diagonally left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Dívčí skála
To the right of the hermitage upwards to the ring, traverse below the ring above the road… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Dívčí skála
Via the overhanging edge and left via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Danger +1
6
Dívčí skála
To the left of the hermitage to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Dívčí skála
From the left to the ring in the West wall, right onto the balcony and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dívčí skála
Via the gully in the valley wall to the ring, from the right onto the ledge and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Dívčí skála
Via the East wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Dívčí skála
Via the upper overhanging edge diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
7
Dívčí skála
Via the right part of the valley wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Dívčí skála
Via the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Pocestný
In the West wall over the overhang to the crack, slightly right over the hourglass to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Pocestný
In the left part of the West wall onto the ledge, through the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Pocestný
Via the West wall below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Pocestný
Via the SW slab below the summit (hourglass), behind the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Pocestný
Through the first part of the East wall to the hourglass, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Pocestný
From the road via the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Pocestný
Via the East wall in the fall line of the South edge exit to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Echo
In the center of the West wall up a crack and diagonally left to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kačer
Through the center of the valley wall via the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kačer
Stemming or stepping over into the uphill wall, right to the edge, up to the bolt, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Echo
In the East wall via a chimney below the overhang (protection), by crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Echo
Stemming between the edge and the hourglass via the small cave (sling) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Echo
Stemming like the original route and traverse right (hourglasses) into the East wall. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Echo
From the West around the NW edge traverse into the North wall and along the grooves… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Echo
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Oříšek
In the north face along the crack over the overhang, directly up the wall, right behind… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Oříšek
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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