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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Vlčí doupě
From the base of the valley chimney, up the wall diagonally right to the 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Vlčí doupě
Jump from the massif n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Vlčí doupě
Left of the "Plateau Chimney" up the wall slightly diagonally left and to the top. Rock Climbing Laid wall
2
Vlčí doupě
From the plateau side, up the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vlčí doupě
Along the north edge via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vlčí doupě
Up the west wall via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bratříček
Along the rib in the S wall in the cornice, step right and up the wall directly over K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bratříček
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Bratříček
By jumping from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Bratříček
Up the valley wall via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Bratříček
By jumping from "Sestra" to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bratříček
Along the left valley edge to the 1st K. Slightly right over the overhang to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bratříček
Start from the valley between the tower and "Sister" and then up the chimney along the… Rock Climbing
8
Divočák
Right of the route "Staročeská" up the wall straight up. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
5
Bivoj
From the boulder in the left part of the W wall, up the loose small wall to K and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bivoj
2.5 m right of the start of the W crack, up the small wall, diagonally left to a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bivoj
Along the S edge straight up. Rock Climbing
5
Bivoj
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack straight up. Rock Climbing
7
Bivoj
Along the SE edge under the overhang to K, over it straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bivoj
Along the crack behind the bivouac to its end (hourglasses), step left onto the ledge in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bivoj
Through the center of the NE wall into the broken crack to K, follow it onto the balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bivoj
Via the route "Zaber, Bivoji!" to the end of the crack on the ledge and directly over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bivoj
From the beginning of the ledge (from K) straight up the wall along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bivoj
From the Northwest, step from the boulder into the face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Ťuhýk
Along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ťuhýk
Through the chimney to the fore-rock and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ťuhýk
In the right part of the Southeast wall along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ťuhýk
By the steep gully from the Southeast to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Svatojánská věž
Start on the N edge. With sharp, falcon-like holds to the right over the point to the W… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Svatojánská věž
Up the southern wall over 2 K (pitons/bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing

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