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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Penis
South wall and from the left n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Supí hlava
Along the right edge of the NW wall upwards to the end of the traverse of the original… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Supí hlava
Along the upper wall to the right into a rib and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Supí hlava
Along the upper wall directly below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Supí hlava
From N (below the fore-rock) briefly upwards, traverse the NW wall to the W ridge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malý svorník
Overhang in the North wall into a crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Hřebík
Along the right upper ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Hřebík
Along the NW ridge, via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kovadlina
Through the center of the valley (NW) wall, via 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kovadlina
From the center of the plateau wall diagonally right to the oblique crack (loop) and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kovadlina
Along the S edge to a ledge under an overhang and a narrow chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Fata Morgana
Through the chimney between the 1st and 2nd fore-rock and over 2 chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Mince
In the right part of the plateau wall, using the edge upwards under a small overhang and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
?
Fata Morgana
Through the chimney between the 2nd and 3rd fore-rock and over two chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Fata Morgana
In the right part of the valley wall along the cracks and higher up the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Fata Morgana
Along the NE edge of the 2nd fore-rock to its summit and over 2 chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Fata Morgana
In the left part of the plateau wall via a hollow and chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Fata Morgana
From the furthest fore-rock via three chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Fata Morgana
Through the chimney between the eastern and main summit n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Pešek
From the valley, through a crack and higher up the wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pešek
Through the chimney and small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pan
Start in the uphill face along the slanted ledge to its end. Traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pan
To the right of the route "Sylvestr Stanyol" up the face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Pan
Via the route "Pane jo!" from the slanted ledge, up the overhanging face along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pan
Through the crack from the valley side to the fore-rock and by the original route to the… Rock Climbing
5
Pan
From the fore-rock, by standing over the overhang and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pan
Uphill crack to the NE fore-rock, traverse right to K, diagonally right to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hrbáč
Via the valley wall to K and slightly to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Novomanželský masív
From the East through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Křížová věž
From N to the ledge and over fine cracks into the horizontal notch (clock). Further over… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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