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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Věže přátel přírody severní věž
Via the left part of the North face over 2 bolts and a fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věže přátel přírody severní věž
Through the passage between the "Main" and "North" towers to the platform in the valley… Rock Climbing
7
Věže přátel přírody severní věž
Via the narrow valley face over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the North tower, by jumping/stepping into the face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věže přátel přírody severní věž
Via the crack in the East face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věže přátel přírody severní věž
In the right part of the North face, upwards to the balcony on the edge, along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the North tower, traverse/overhang and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the gorge between the "Main" and "North" towers right to the W edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the massif, descend to the ledge, traverse into the chimney, cross over and along… Rock Climbing
8
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the gorge between the "Main" and "North" towers, via the North face over a bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the massif to the summit of the "Main Tower". Rock Climbing
4
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via the chimney between the "Main" and "North" towers to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
From the bolt of "Valley Route", along the edge over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Approach in the middle of the W wall and up it over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via opposition between the "Main" and "North" towers to a small ledge below the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via the arched SW edge to 1st K, left behind the edge to 2nd K, into the crack and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Left of the "Old Route" up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Up the East wall of the "Main Tower", diagonally left to K and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via the route "Iron Man" to 1st K, right upwards to 2nd K, over the overhang into a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via the chimney between the "Main" and "South" towers to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Stěna nepřátel
Along the left edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Stěna nepřátel
Through the middle of the wall over 3 K towards the clock and right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Okrajová věž
Via the route "Second of Eternity" to 1st K, from there left through the corner over 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stěna nepřátel
From the S edge of the W wall along the ledge to the right to the start of the flake and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věže přátel přírody hlavní a jižní věž
Via the crack in the plateau wall of the Main Tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Okrajová věž
In the valley wall diagonally left and via a small crack to the ledge (clock). Along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pentagon
In the corner via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Okrajová věž
Via the chimney route and diagonally left to 1st K, into the gully and to 2nd K, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pentagon
Via the "Left West Chimney" 3 m upwards. Along the wall at the right edge to K. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pentagon
From the corner of the Left West Chimney along the ledge to the left into the corner,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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