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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Prostřední věž
Along the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Drážďanská věž
Up the valley wall to 1. K. Up to 2. K, right into the crack, along it to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Drážďanská věž
By the "Old route" under the gully, further left over K past the edge to the plateau and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Drážďanská věž
Along the South wall directly over K to the tip. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Drážďanská věž
From the eastern edge left under the gully, over 1. K up to the plateau and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Drážďanská věž
Along the NE edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Drážďanská věž
From the NE edge diagonally right to K. Right and up to the plateau and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lesní muž
Along the valley wall to the block, from there right to 1st K. Via the dihedral to 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Drážďanská věž
Traverse right along the ledge to the center of the South wall, up and right to K on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jenovéfa
Along the NW edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Lesní muž
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lesní muž
Through the chimney and along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní muž
Through the chimney and along the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jenovéfa
From the NW edge, right along the wall to the balcony to K. Diagonally left, through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lesní muž
Through the chimney into a small cave, crawl into the valley wall and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jenovéfa
From the saddle, by bridging directly to K of the "Railway Route" to the "Rainy" and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jenovéfa
From K of the "Railway Route" to the "Rainy" overhang, left behind the edge to K and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jenovéfa
From the SW edge of "Rainy" traverse right to the ledge and an overhang or jump to the… Rock Climbing
4
Dědův zub
In the plateau wall diagonally left to the balcony on the S edge and upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hláska (Grundwächter)
Through the left part of the valley wall past the 1st Piton to a large ledge, along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hláska (Grundwächter)
From the North edge traverse right into the wall and directly past the Piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dědův zub
Through the valley chimney between M and the tower to the ledge and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hláska (Grundwächter)
In the valley wall directly or from the left into the crack, onto the ledge and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dědův zub
From the upper side just below the window. Two steps right and via a small crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Balvan
From the "Leaf" by jump (or overhang) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Balvan
From the flake (by standing traverse) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balvan
Up the East wall into the small chimney/gully and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balvan
From the saddle between the "Leaf" and the tower (by standing traverse) and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Balvan
Up the wall below the rappel station to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Gastonova věž
Up the wall below the rappel station past 2 Pitons to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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