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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Gastonova věž
Along the upper edge of the upper tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Veterán
From the plateau side via the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Veterán
Via the chimney from the valley side to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Veterán
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Veterán
Through the right part of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Veterán
Via the eastern edge over 2K to the hourglasses and further over 3rd K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Herodes
Stemming between M and the tower to the large holes (also an overhang from M here). Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Herodes
Through the right part of the valley (SW) wall to K, right and up to the hourglasses,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Herodes
From the N edge traverse the wall to K. Via the crack over the overhang above the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Pepínova věž
From the upper side through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Salome
Up the right upper edge into the hole, pass through to the downhill wall, to the right to…
7
Salome
To the left in the plateau wall with a good stance into the 2nd hole, traverse, and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Salome
From the 1st hole traverse in the upper wall to the 2nd hole. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Salome
Via the "Biblical Route" into the hole, upwards along the upper wall to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Placička
Through the chimney from the S to the ledge, into the middle of the wall, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pudřenka
In the downhill wall from the balcony n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Placička
Through the chimney from the N ledge and the middle of the E wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pudřenka
Up the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kočka
Up the upper wall to the ledge, to the right and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kočka
Through the crack in the left part of the N wall to the end and then up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kočka
Through the chimney to the sub-summit, overhang and to the right behind the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kočka
In the right part of the E wall through a crack to the ledge, jump and along the SE edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kočka
Up the small wall from the chimney or from the scree to the ledge on the N edge (belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kočka
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojblok
In the middle of the north wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojblok
In the middle of the W wall of the large block into the notch, left behind the edge and n… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Dvojblok
Uphill edge of the smaller block to its top and jump over n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Dvojblok
Chimney between the blocks and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojblok
Directly under the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dvojblok
In the right part of the north wall into the crack and follow it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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