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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Soví věž II
From the base of the W edge diagonally right upwards to K on the downhill edge. Up and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Banán
In the right part of the downhill wall along the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Soví věž II
Western edge (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví věž II
Right part of the N wall across K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Klíčová stěna
Up the crack in the left part of the E wall n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Klíčová stěna
Up the wall over the 1st bolt to the rounded edge and along it over the 3rd bolt, in the… Rock Climbing
4
Klíčová stěna
Up the crack-chimney in the E wall to the little tower and n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Klíčová stěna
Up the "Eastern Chimney" briefly, then right to the balcony to the bolt. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Klíčová stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the overhanging crack over the bolt n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Klíčová stěna
Up the right chimney in the E wall n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Klíčová stěna
Up the prominent chimney in the middle of the N wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Klíčová stěna
Up the crack in the sloping wall to the ledge and then up the corner n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Klíčová stěna
Up the large corner over the bolt n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Klíčová stěna
Up the corner between the routes "Sokolí" and "Eastern Crack" n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Klíčová stěna
Up the NE wall to the bolt, to the balcony to the crack and up it n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Železný roh
Up the corner/dihedral over 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Železný roh
Up the corner completely in the left part of the NE wall, then right along the overgrown… Rock Climbing
7
Železný roh
Up the wall to the ledge, then right to the bolt and through the crack n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Železný roh
Up the wall to the ledge to the small pillar, up the corner double crack to the top of… Rock Climbing
7
Železný roh
Up the corner completely in the left part of the NE wall over the bolt n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Železný roh
In the right part of the E wall to the 1st bolt, slightly to the right to the 2nd bolt,… Rock Climbing
6-
Železný roh
Up the east wall to the bolt and further up via the crack n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Železný roh
From the west crack diagonally left to the bolt and n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Železný roh
From the north, in the recess under the overhang and then up the crack n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Praděd
In the right part of the plateau wall, using a crack to a balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Černá věž
From the bolt, traverse 3 meters to the right and up the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Černá věž
Up the right plateau edge into the notch, to the right towards the bolt and over the… Rock Climbing
4
Praděd
Using the crack from the balcony in the left part of the valley wall, passing the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Černá věž
Up the wall from the right plateau edge, slightly to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Praděd
Up the small wall to the left of the Normal Route n. v. Rock Climbing

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