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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Jeroným
On the right part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jeroným
Upper wall through the hole n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Thorův kyj
In the recess along the lower (Northeast) edge to the ledge and briefly n. v.
2
Nalezenci
Chimney between the tower and the backdrop n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Nalezenci
In the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nalezenci
Crack in the North wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nalezenci
In the right part of the South wall, crack to the balcony and left n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Starý Fiffi
Through the center of the east wall (from the tree) directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Starý Fiffi
In the left part of the upper wall, over the overhang and slightly to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Starý Fiffi
Right upper edge to the balcony in the South wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna bílých skal
Chimney in the left part of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna bílých skal
Crack in the right part of the wall to the overgrown balcony, another crack past a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stěna bílých skal
Narrow chimney in the side (West) wall n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna bílých skal
In the right part of the wall, past 4 bolts, in the upper part to the right to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna bílých skal
In the left part of the wall, past 4 bolts to the pine tree and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví věž I (Eulenturm)
Starting on the left upper edge, go left into the crack and onto the balcony. Right edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Soví hláska
Right edge in the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Soví hláska
Through the center of the upper wall to the ledge, traverse left and through the notch n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Soví věž I (Eulenturm)
Through the center of the lower wall, past 2 bolts to a platform and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví věž I (Eulenturm)
From the uphill side right across K into the crack, along it to the platform (K) and. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vřesová věž
Center of the uphill wall. Rock Climbing
4
Vřesová věž
East wall left upwards onto the edge and. Rock Climbing
6-
Soví věž I (Eulenturm)
Right part of the uphill wall under the overhang to K, left across the overhang. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví věž I (Eulenturm)
Directly in the fall line of the crack of "Old Road" through the fissure to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Soví věž I (Eulenturm)
Uphill wall diagonally left across the overhang to K and straight (clocks). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vřesová věž
In the W wall diagonally right to the birch tree and along the groove. Rock Climbing
4
Vřesová věž
Uphill (W) edge. Rock Climbing
5
Soví věž II
Directly in the fall line of K along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Banán
Western edge. Rock Climbing
6
Soví věž II
Eastern edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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