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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Černá věž
Using the crack from the valley to the small cave, (using stemming) over the overhang… Rock Climbing
7
Praděd
Through the right part of the valley wall, passing 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Praděd
Up the edge to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Praděd
Up the left valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Marone
From the NW massif, traverse onto a ledge, traverse left and chimney/opposition move n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Marone
Up the valley chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Marone
From the massif, descend from the East and jump/step across n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hladká stěna
Wide crack from a deep corner over K n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Hladká stěna
Crack-chimney in the right part of the valley wall to 1st K, to the left to 2nd K and… Rock Climbing
6-
Drsná věž
From the foot of the SW edge to the shelf, right upwards to 1st K. Crack over 2nd K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Drsná věž
In the right part of the upper wall briefly disagreement, above the overhang and wall n.… Rock Climbing
6
Drsná věž
N as the path My body withers to 1st K, from it to the right to 2nd K, over the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Drsná věž
From the gully smooth edge to K, along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Drsná věž
From E wide chimney over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Drsná věž
From the massif from the north n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Drsná stěna
From the gully between "Rough Tower" and "Rough Wall" deepening to K, upwards and wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Drsná stěna
In the left part of the wall overhanging crack to the end, on the right wall to the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Drsná věž
From the wedged boulder in the left part of the upper wall crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Drsná věž
From the massif from the east n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Drsná stěna
Chimney in the right part of the wall to the end, wall to the gully and to K. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zmrzlá stěna
Through the western chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Zmrzlá stěna
In the east wall through the corner crack over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zmrzlá stěna
Through the downhill crack and higher up through the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Zmrzlá stěna
Through the east wall along the ledges (loops) to the 1st K. Slightly to the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Zmrzlá stěna
From the pine tree in the northwest wall diagonally to the right and up to K. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zmrzlá stěna
Through the right part of the wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Rytíř
In the massif through the chimney to the balcony, fall into the wall and under the abseil… Rock Climbing
6
Rytíř
Along the right upper edge to the ledge and under the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Rytíř
Through the crack in the west wall to the edge to K and through the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Houbař
Through the gap between M and the tower, higher up a fall and n. v. Rock Climbing

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