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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Pentagon
Approach to the right of the "Northwest Chimney" via a small wall to the ledge and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pentagon
Via the chimney to the right of the NW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pentagon
Via the crack and chimney in the large corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pentagon
Center of the West wall, start via the narrow gully/chimney to the 1st K, over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pentagon
Right of the route "Padající listí" up the wall over 3 K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pentagon
Up the vertical crack in the West wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pentagon
Left of the route "Nevinná" over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pentagon
Start on the NW edge to a ledge and traverse right to the 1st K. Directly to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pentagon
Up the West wall briefly along the flake and a narrow overhanging crack to a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pentagon
In the East wall into a broken crack, finally through a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pentagon
Through the recess in the center of the SW wall to a small balcony and from the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Malé razítko
With stemming to the balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Komínové věže
Through the wide chimney between the massif and the East tower to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Komínové věže
Along the South edge directly over the overhang to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Komínové věže
Through the chimney between the West and East towers to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Komínové věže
From the chimney of the South route right to the South edge of the East tower and over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Komínové věže
In the left part of the plateau wall of the East tower via a gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Komínové věže
Through the chimney from the North between the East tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Komínové věže
From the left valley edge to the right below the recess, left upwards to the balcony, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Komínové věže
From the massif from the North with a double traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Komínové věže
From the massif, traverse to the "East Tower" to the rappelling K. Rock Climbing
3
Komínové věže
From the platform by the East tower into the chimney between the towers, up to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Duo
From the right part of the massif, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bohnická věž
Along the upper wall near the East edge up, right to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Duo
From the NW via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Prostřední věž
Along the crack from the South to the ledge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Drážďanská věž
In the right part of the upper wall into the hole, left to 1. K. Directly to 2. K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bohnická věž
In the valley wall from the right to the crack, along it below the summit and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Prostřední věž
Along the North wall right to the balcony, left into the couloir and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Prostřední věž
Along the South wall left to the gully and through it to the balcony to K, right and to… Rock Climbing

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