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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Pšovan
Through a corner crack over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pšovan
Through a crack to K and along the wall on the left into a corner crack. Through it over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Hradská věž
From the massif descend through a chimney, traverse right along a ledge and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hradská věž
From the chimney from NE upwards to K. Upwards through the wall and higher to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vějířová
Through a chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Vějířová
Through the inner chimney dividing the tower into two parts n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Vějířová
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hradská věž
In the left part of the upland wall, through a wide chimney to a balcony and a small wall… Rock Climbing
6
Vějířová
Through the right part of the S wall over K onto a ledge and through a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vějířová
Through the left part of the S wall over K onto a ledge and through a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hradská věž
In the right part of the upland wall, through a chimney upwards and over a wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hradská věž
Through a crack in the center of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Železná panna
N by chimney between the W massif and the tower, fall into the W wall, onto the ledge,… Rock Climbing
1
Železná panna
Through the western slab M diagonally to the right behind the edge, 2 m descent and jump… Rock Climbing
3
Železná panna
From W through the chimney, right to the edge and through it (clock) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Železná panna
Through the center of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Železná panna
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kožený zámek
To the right of the SE edge onto the bench. By positioning into the wall to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kožený zámek
Along the edge below the rappel point about 3 m upwards, step left into the W wall to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Železná panna
From the east side, left of the chimney along the edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kožený zámek
From the SE edge up to the notch (clock), right to the 1st K and further over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Železná panna
Through the chimney to the notch, traverse left into the valley wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kožený zámek
From K directly through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kominík
Through the valley crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kožený zámek
Through the NW edge to K, left under the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kominík
Through the S face diagonally to the right to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kominík
Through the north wall at the right edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kominík
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Lazar
Through the left part of the valley wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kominík
From the right upper edge, traverse into the crack, onto the shelf and over the overhang… Rock Climbing

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