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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Kožený zámek
Through the left part of the S wall to the 1st K, up to the ledge and through the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lazar
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dvojhlavá věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Lazar
Through the center of the valley wall over 2 K and a rappel K n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Lazar
By jump or step n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojhlavá věž
Along the edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Dvojhlavá věž
Over the overhang into the crack, into the hole, up to the ferruginous ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá věž
To the left of "Forest Road" up the wall to K. Left into the gully, up it to the shelf… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Dvojhlavá věž
Jump or overflow n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojhlavá věž
Along the indistinct SW edge to K and then straight on n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Jednohlavá věž
From S to the balcony, traverse left, through the valley wall under the gully to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jednohlavá věž
Through the left part of the valley wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojhlavá věž
Through the chimney and crack in the upland wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojhlavá věž
Through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Dvojhlavá věž
Through the NW wall into a deep hole, up to the shelf, through the recess under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hodinová věž
Along the rounded S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hodinová věž
Through the chimney in the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Hodinová věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Hodinová věž
From the upland side through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hodinová věž
Through the center of the upland wall over the clock to K and the wall under the rappel n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hodinová věž
Through the crack in the right part of the upland wall to the balcony (clock), right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Velký převis
Up the wall to the left of the route "Toronto" over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Velký převis
Up the chimney in the middle of the wall to the ledge, up the wall to the 1st bolt. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Velký převis
To the left of the route "Total Deployment", up the overhanging wall over 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Bezhlavá
From the south, up the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Bezhlavá
From the uphill side from the east, using the gap between M and the tower onto the ledge… Rock Climbing
6
Bezhlavá
On the right in the downhill wall, from the chimney, up the wall past numerous slinging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bezhlavá
Through the middle of the downhill wall over 3 bolts and a rappel bolt n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bezhlavá
In the left part of the south wall, up the crack to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bezhlavá
Along the left downhill edge over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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