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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Klouček
Through the left part of the upper wall to the notch and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kývalka
Right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Bulínek
From the footbridge, west edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bulínek
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Bulínek
SE edge (potentially unstable block) n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kývalka
NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kývalka
NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bulínek
Through the center of the NW wall to the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kývalka
Through the center of the upper face n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Trojčata
Through the inner chimney from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Trojčata
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Včelařovo žihadlo
Along the West rounded edge and slightly from the right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kluk
Along the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5
Kluk
Through the recess in the upper face to the right onto the rounded (S) edge and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4
Kluk
From the eastern foreland left into the valley face and up it over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Včelařovo žihadlo
Through the center of the NE face directly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Trojčata
Leap from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Trojčata
Through the chimney in the East face below the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Balík
Up the upper face below the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Balík
From the southern foreland up the face n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Cikán
In the right part of the West face up the face to the ledge and left over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Balík
Along the eastern edge over BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cikán
Descent on the left face of M, step over and slightly n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Cikán
Through the recess from the valley side over steps to K and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Cikán
Through the crack in the East face to the end at K and up the face n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Balík
Right part of the upper face to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Děti pirátů
Leap from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Děti pirátů
From V, up the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing
2
Všivák
By the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Všivák
From the upper side traverse right and over the overhanging edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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