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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Hlučovská věž
Through the right part of the East (upper) wall, past K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Šerifova hlava
In the right part of the valley wall, through the crack to the end, left through the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šerifova hlava
Directly through the upper wall to the rappel and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šerifova hlava
Along the rounded edge of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Trampská věž
In the middle of the South wall, through the wall and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Trampská věž
Through the East wall below the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Trampská věž
Through the right part of the South wall into the gully, onto the balcony and along the… Rock Climbing
2
Velký Manitou
Through the chimney in the West wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trampská věž
Along the SE (upper) edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Velký Manitou
Through the gully in the South wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Dakota
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Dakota
Through the crack in the middle of the valley wall, past 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Dakota
Through the gully in the right part of the East wall to its end and further n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dakota
Through the chimney from the upper side n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kačírek
From the massif, jump n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dakota
By chimney from the downhill side n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kačírek
In the right part of the north face up to the balcony in the downhill face ('clock') and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kačírek
From SW through holes to K and by the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Konvalinková věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kačírek
By chimney in the middle opposite the tower to the balcony, traverse and shortly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad chatou
By chimney from the uphill side n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Konvalinková věž
From the upper massif, jump n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Konvalinková věž
From the gully to the right to the edge, along it to the 'clock' ledge and right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž nad chatou
By chimney from the east to the end, overhang and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Konvalinková věž
Right downhill edge (two o'clock), traverse left to the balcony and from there left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Konvalinková věž
In the left part of the downhill face, through holes directly to the large ledge and left… Rock Climbing
3
Kačírek
By chimney between M and tower n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Konvalinková věž
By the uphill face n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u Milči
Left part of the east face n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Věž nad chatou
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing

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