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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Wigwam
From the SE by a rounded edge to a gully and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Wigwam
Jump from the massif to the right part of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž u Milči
By chimney between M and tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Wigwam
Completely to the left in the upland chimney to a ledge (hourglass) and to the left up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Wigwam
In the right part of the upland chimney, stemming to the end and over an overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Wigwam
By a chimney from the valley side to a ledge, along it to the right to a birch tree, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž u Milči
Left part of the north face n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Wigwam
By an overhang to a groove and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Losí věž
By the left upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Losí věž
From the upland side by a stemming move to a ledge, to the left under a groove and up it… Rock Climbing
4
Losí věž
From the upland side by a stemming move, higher up an overhang and then straight up the… Rock Climbing
3
Losí věž
From the gorge between "Reindeer Tower" and the tower, stemming to an edge and over… Rock Climbing
6
Losí věž
By a gully in the middle of the valley wall to a bench, to the K and onto a ledge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bob
By the upland wall below the rappel point n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bob
In the right part of the valley wall, by a subtle falcon crack and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bob
SW edge between the routes "Wizard Pokustón" and "Little Falcon" edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Losí věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Heřmánecká věž
In the uphill face diagonally left to the balcony and rounded edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Heřmánecká věž
Left edge of the downhill face to the small balcony (clock) and the edge, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bob
SE edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bob
Left part of the uphill wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Heřmánecká věž
On the right side of the uphill face to the clock and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Heřmánecká věž
Center of the downhill face over K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Heřmánecká věž
On the right side of the downhill face over K and the clock, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Heřmánecká věž
Eastern edge along cracks to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Heřmánecká věž
Briefly "Normal Route" and further left part of the overhanging and brittle uphill face,… Rock Climbing
6
Zelená věž (Přáda)
From the massif step into the west wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Zelená věž (Přáda)
Center of the NE wall over K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Starý hřib (Heřmánek)
Center of the downhill face to the ledge, diagonally left into the overhang to K, chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Starý hřib (Heřmánek)
Left side of the uphill face under the salting, n. v. Rock Climbing

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