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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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7
Starý hřib (Heřmánek)
Right side of the uphill face over K, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Starý hřib (Heřmánek)
SW wall over K to the right, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zelená věž (Přáda)
Chimney on the NE edge to K. Left wall to the ridge and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zelená věž (Přáda)
In the uphill face diagonally to the left, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Prázdninová
Chimney between the tower and M height overhang and wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Hála
From the uphill side diagonally right to the ledge and traverse right over K into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Prázdninová
On the left side of the uphill face along the crack and to the left, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Okatá věž
Crack from the northeast, n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hála
Overhanging downhill edge over K to the ledge and traverse right to the 2nd K of the "At… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hála
From 1st K standing and wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Prázdninová
Left uphill edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Prázdninová
To the left of "Edge under the salting", wall at a fine crack directly, n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Prázdninová
From the massif jump over to the small ledge and briefly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prázdninová
In the right part of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Navrátilec
From the massif from the south by jumping over n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Navrátilec
Up the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Navrátilec
In the left part of the east wall over pyrites n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Navrátilec
To the left, up the lower wall to the balcony and by positioning n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Krvomlýnské kolo
Through the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Krvomlýnské kolo
In the north wall over the overhang and the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Krvomlýnské kolo
From the massif jump to the ledge in the left part of the tower's summit. Rock Climbing
5
Krvomlýnské kolo
From the south through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Krvomlýnské kolo
Through the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Krvomlýnské kolo
Through the center of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Desítka
Descend from the massif onto a ledge. Step over to the tower and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Desítka
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif into the crack and it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Desítka
Through the valley corner to the end, right onto the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Milota
Through the left part of the upper wall to the ledge, left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Milota
Through the center of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Desítka
Left onto the massif. Traverse along the ledge, overhang and along the route „IBU600“ n.… Rock Climbing

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