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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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2
Děti pirátů
Up the western chimney. Rock Climbing
7
Bod
Up the right valley gully to the ledge (holds) directly up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Orion
Start from the left valley edge, traverse along the ledge to the center of the valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orion
Up the left edge over K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Orion
From the massif. Rock Climbing
3
Orion
Up the chimney between M and the tower. Rock Climbing
3
Bod
Up the right upper face to the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Orion
Up the right edge over K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bod
In the southeast face along the right edge. Rock Climbing
5
Bod
On the left, up the valley wall to a small pillar on the ledge and over the large and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Opřená věž
A jump from the opposite massif. Rock Climbing
8
Lebka
In the right part of the upper face, over an overhang and directly over K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Opřená věž
From the valley side, up a chimney that turns into a crack. Rock Climbing
6
Opřená věž
Along the left upper edge. Rock Climbing
1
Opřená věž
By a jump. Rock Climbing
6
Lebka
Up the left upper edge, right and up the face below the rappel point via K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Opřená věž
To the right of the right valley edge, up the face and edge to the iron pyrites, higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Lebka
Up the left upper edge to a balcony and right to the 1st K. Stand from the seat to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lebka
Original route with a clean stance. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mraveniště
Through the center of the west face over 2 rings, from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mraveniště
Up the blunt southern edge over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hlučovská věž
Through the center of the NE wall, past K n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mraveniště
Along the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlučovská věž
In the right part of the SW wall, diagonally left through the wall, past the clocks, to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hlučovská věž
Through the center of the valley wall, over the overhang (clocks) and through the wall 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlučovská věž
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Opřená věž
Up the face below the rappel. Rock Climbing
6
Mraveniště
From the upper edge, traverse right to a balcony in the valley wall and along the edge. Rock Climbing
3
Opřená věž
From the upper side, a chimney between M and the tower, then higher up via a crack. Rock Climbing
4
Šerifova hlava
Along the NE edge from the left to the clocks, higher up through the gully on the left n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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