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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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7
Bezhlavá
Up the left crack in the downhill wall over 2 bolts to the ledge, to the right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Bezhlavá
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Bezhlavá
From the uphill side from the south, up the chimney to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavička
Left part of the downhill wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hlavička
Right part of the downhill wall into the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Hlavička
Left part of the uphill wall to the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hlavička
Right part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hlavička
Narrow south wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Hlavička
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vakovlk
Through the middle of the downhill wall to K in the ledge and around the stub n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vakovlk
From the downhill chimney, along the edge to K, across the overhang and up the small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vakovlk
From the boulder at the uphill wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Chlapecká věž
Upper edge under the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Chlapecká věž
Through the center of the west wall over 2K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zelený kanibal
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vakovlk
Through the center of the wall under the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Zelený kanibal
Through the eastern chimney to the pre-summit and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Chlapecká věž
To the right of the upper edge, diagonally to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Chlapecká věž
Through the center of the east wall over BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vakovlk
Upper small wall from left to right to the rounded edge and it n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Zelený kanibal
From SW along the falconry to the notch, traverse left to the overgrown edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Klouček
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Klouček
Through the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bulínek
To the right of the upper edge, through the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Ztracená varta
From the west side through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Ztracená varta
From the valley chimney, left along the crack to the ledge, left into the gully, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ztracená varta
From the footbridge on the east side through a narrow chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Ztracená varta
Through the chimney between the tower and the south massif n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Bulínek
From the SE edge, left to the crack and it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ztracená varta
Along the SW edge, through the wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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